themed bars | Tales From A Weary Traveler

Yerevan, Armenia

Armenian people have endured perhaps one of the longest struggles for self-preservation and independence in the world. Throughout history the country has been part of the Byzantine, Seljuk, Mongol, and Ottoman Empires, and most recently the former Soviet Union. But despite the presence of all these invasive empires, the people of Armenia have held onto their cultural identity. This is true too of the Armenia diaspora, which is approximately three times the size of the home country’s population. People are proud to be Armenian. As they should be, especially given the struggles generations past and present have endured.

There are reminders throughout Yerevan of the country’s history. The Genocide Memorial is a striking display built to honor those killed by the Ottoman Empire, present day Turkey, during and after WWI. Armenia claims over 1,000,000 Armenian people were murdered in what they refer to today as the Great Crime. Turkey upholds less than half this number suffered. Armenia not only lost people during the genocide but a significant portion of land, including Mt. Ararat, the official symbol of the country. This event resulted in a tense border dispute that continues to this day and prevents travel across the Armenia-Turkey border. The memorial itself is simple in design but still powerfully moving. An eternal flame burns in the center in memory of all those who died and a small museum gives more information on the genocide.

First impressions of Yerevan is that it isn’t the my most beautiful city I’ve ever seen. The buildings are all boxes painted varying shades of beige, which look especially dreary during the winter when the sky is a constant grey. This is thanks to the Soviet Union who built most of the buildings. The government has invested in beautifying its city center but little money goes elsewhere. My favorite building was the train station which looks like it hasn’t changed since the end of the Cold War. Its most distinguishing feature would have to be the larger-than-life, Soviet-esque statue of a man riding a horse as he reaches for his sword.

An old bus fueled by propane tanks strapped to the roof

The Museum of Armenian History located in downtown Yerevan

The train station

One of the best things about Yerevan though has the to the abundance of themed bars. These little hole-in-the-wall spots don’t seem like much from the outside and can easily be missed since they are located under ground level of other buildings. But be sure not to miss out places with themes like Pirates of the Caribbean, Wild Wild West, and my own personal favorite, The Troll Pub. The name doesn’t do this place justice. The Troll Pub is an homage to Swedish heavy metal and Tolkien’s Middle Earth. Words cannot describe the atmosphere in The Troll Pub, it truly is one of Yerevan’s hidden gems.